Night Trains from Budapest and Krakow

1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

Hi, I'm doing some early research for a trip in Aug/Sept 2012 (by 2 couples aged 50's) and was planning on building 2 night train trips into our itinerary - one from Budapest to Krakow and the other from Krakow to Prague. I've since read a number of online posts which have been less than flattering about overnight trains in many parts of Europe, so I'm interested to know whether anyone has had experience of these 2 specific routes. I would have opted for 1st class double sleepers, but now I'm wondering whether we should 1) just 'bite the bullet' and go ahead, 2) take one night train, and travel by day with an overnight stay en route for the other leg, or 3) travel both legs by day.
Any advice would be appreciated as would any insights as to the best way to purchase tickets. Many thanks in anticipation.

Well, from our experience in most cases the stories about horrible East European trains (especially overnight) are exaggerations. During 90's trains in that region of Europe tended to be a bit problematic for foreign tourists (the time was a harsh one then), but now in most cases it is just a kind of stereotypical fear. Because as anywhere, if you follow minimal safety precautions (like don't leave you stuff unattended, lock compartment door, don't drink with strangers etc.) you will be totally fine and your chances to get in trouble definitely won't be higher than in Western Europe, especially since you want to use double sleeper compartment.
Besides as of today, sleeper carriage on route Budapest-Krakow is rather new Polish railways carriage. In case of Krakow-Prague, it is a bit older and Czech, but still fine. And conductors are present in both cases.

Thank you for those insights. I agree that if you're careful - as we would be - then security shouldn't be too much of an issue. It was probably the comments about cramped, noisy conditions, and being woken up more than once during the night for passport checks etc that were putting me off as much as anything! It's reassuring to hear that conditions have improved, though.
I'm understanding from reading posts that it's best to buy tickets for these night trips once we're in Budapest and Krakow? Some people have talked of waiting for hours in long lines to buy tickets on night trains but replies have suggested that they'd save time by paying a small fee and buying tickets through nearby agencies - often in the railway station. Would you agree??

...and being woken up more than once during the night for passport checks

Official border control (passport checks, customs etc.) were abandoned rather long time ago, actually in 2007 when most of the Central European countries entered Schengen agreement. So nowadays it might be just random police check, but unlike in Germany or France, this happens really rarely in that region of Europe.

I'm understanding from reading posts that it's best to buy tickets for these night trips once we're in Budapest and Krakow? Some people have talked of waiting for hours in long lines to buy tickets on night trains but replies have suggested that they'd save time by paying a small fee and buying tickets through nearby agencies - often in the railway station. Would you agree??

In case of Budapest-Krakow overnight carriages you can actually purchase discounted international tickets from Hungarian Railways website (http://elvira.mav-start.hu/elvira.dll/xslms/), so you would pay only 49 EUR per person in 2 bed compartment, which is really good price in this case. The interface is a bit problematic since partly in Hungarian, but till the time of your travel they might fix it or you can always use google translate.
In case of Krakow-Prague, as of today Polish Railways officially doesn't sell international tickets online, so it is either purchase at the ticket counter already in Poland or use agency.
Concerning long lines to buy tickets and agencies: it all really depends on time of the day and actual ticket counter. Obviously during peak hours there might be some queues, but you can always purchase your ticket not at busy railway station, but Hungarian Railways office in the city center (on Jozsef Attila ut. near Deak Ferenc ter.) or do it during evening walk when there is already no queues at the station etc. With agencies it is complicated, some like Wasteels at Budapest-Keleti station (to your left when you enter from the main entrance) doesn't charge any commission at all. But generally, there is no need to pay more and buy from agency, because you can easily avoid queues and purchase directly from train companies.